Parts Supplied Issues.
Ok, these problems were going to be expected becuase this kit is an SDV kit which is not very old (they used to use the old Ford Sierra as a donor vehicle), and they have not really had enough customer feedback on what problems customers are having, so you WILL have parts missing. I can only really put here what was missing in my kit to try and help you make sure these parts are in your kit when you collect it. Don't panick though, Westfield are VERY helpful when you ring them about a missing part.
Ok, for the parts then... I was missing the following to start with .....
2 x M8 x 25mm Long bolts for the pedals,
1 x M6 x 35mm Screw + Plain washers and nut for the brake pressure sensor.
2 x M6 Nyloc nuts for the brake pipe three way connectors
All brake pipe P clips missing
All Fuel pipe P clips missing
Not enough rivets for all the pannels (this would only happen if you have asked for exterior pannels)
2 x 7/16" UNF x 4 1/2" Bolts for diff mounting bracket
2 x 7/16" Nyloc nuts for the diff mounting bracket
2 x Repair washers for diff mounting bracket
2 x 7/16" x 2 1/2" Bolts for the front top wishbones
Spacers for the front top wishbones
4 x 7/16" x 4 1/2" Bolts for rear suspension and upper wishbones
NOTE!! .... the 4 x 7/16" x 4 1/2" bolts were missing because of a mistake in the manual which I have explained on the build page. You may need to ask for these when you collect your kit as you will not have them unless the manual and parts list has been updated since i notified them of the issue, so please be aware of this.
Ok, for the parts then... I was missing the following to start with .....
2 x M8 x 25mm Long bolts for the pedals,
1 x M6 x 35mm Screw + Plain washers and nut for the brake pressure sensor.
2 x M6 Nyloc nuts for the brake pipe three way connectors
All brake pipe P clips missing
All Fuel pipe P clips missing
Not enough rivets for all the pannels (this would only happen if you have asked for exterior pannels)
2 x 7/16" UNF x 4 1/2" Bolts for diff mounting bracket
2 x 7/16" Nyloc nuts for the diff mounting bracket
2 x Repair washers for diff mounting bracket
2 x 7/16" x 2 1/2" Bolts for the front top wishbones
Spacers for the front top wishbones
4 x 7/16" x 4 1/2" Bolts for rear suspension and upper wishbones
NOTE!! .... the 4 x 7/16" x 4 1/2" bolts were missing because of a mistake in the manual which I have explained on the build page. You may need to ask for these when you collect your kit as you will not have them unless the manual and parts list has been updated since i notified them of the issue, so please be aware of this.
Manual Issues.
ok there is not many mistakes in the manual that i have found yet... the biggest one i will explain first, This is when you get to the point of fitting the rear upper wishbones and brackets for the diff it says in the manual to use '' 7/16'' x 4'' bolts you will find these are not long enough to go through the suspension wishbones and bracket you will need some 7/16'' x 4 1/2'' bolts i have clarified this with westfield technical and yes it is wrong so you need to make sure you have these bolts on collection....
The next issue i would say is the picture quality its not very clear on where washers and so forth go the best way i worked around this is just to use my own common sense just put washers where it says if you can work it out and also i put washers where i think there should be one, i was told this will not effect the car in any way and also not effect the SVA test as long as everything fits ok and torques up ok....
The next issue i would say is the picture quality its not very clear on where washers and so forth go the best way i worked around this is just to use my own common sense just put washers where it says if you can work it out and also i put washers where i think there should be one, i was told this will not effect the car in any way and also not effect the SVA test as long as everything fits ok and torques up ok....
Issues i Found Along The Way.
Ok so issues i found along the way? there has been many many things i have had to sort modify and also change, but dont let this put you off the things i have found are easy to fix so lets have a look....
the first thing i found was getting the diff in... this is not a perfect fit and is very tight but it will go if you have everything a little loose and tighten up the two top mountings first then the two bolts that go through the chassis bushes.
Next issue i had was getting the bushes into the housings i advise you have this done by westfield if you do not have a hydrolic press as these wont go in easy by a vice like it says in the manual they are a push fit also another way around this is to have the poly bush upgrade which are alot easier to fit....
next is a little something not so much a problem but more of a advisery, when getting the starter kit if you have not also got the finishing kit then i recommend while there buy yourself the engine and transmission mounting bushes these will cost you very little and also the front upper ball joints, this is so when you are building your kit you dont very very quickly come to a dead end as now you can get the engine and transmission in and also you will be able to get the car on the floor on its wheels to do all the tracking and all the torques on the bolts also if you had the space to store the body pannels you can fit them for now and get all the wireing into the car to make sure everything still works and to make some mods..... just an idea you do not have to do this but it made my life easier....
Now for a little more of a tricky problem the clutch servo... you get a brand new clutch hydrolic cable in the kit with 2 banjo bolts either end the thread on the banjo bolt is ok for the master cylinder but will not fit the servo on the transmission the thread is miles out DO NOT try to screw it in you will strip the threads on the servo there are two ways around this...... go to a local car suppliers and get a banjo bolt the same size but right thread or the calliper banjo bolts you are replacing with new ones in the kit are the right thread you can use one of them and it will work fine.....
The next problem i found was the very tight space in the tunnel for the transmission when i tried the gears the transmission housing kept banging against the side of the chassis the way i got around this is very simple lower the transmission down and on the casing are some big lugs which stick out and are just part of the casting process grind these flat and re fit the transmission NOTE when marking out the points for the transmission mountings try to the transmission as central as possible if you find this hard make slots instead of holes so you can adjust the transmission posistion and tighten up tight you will find there is very little space in the tunnel either side of the transmission so this is vital if you dont want any rattles while driving along.....
The last problem i have found up to now in my build is electrical.... i have found alot of people have being having many many electrical problems but this seems to me to be not such a bad thing if you labled all your plugs up when removing them its very simple.... now you need to look at it like this you have just removed a 1600 or possibly a 1800 engine and transmission from a mazda mx5 which is yes a small car but compared to a westi its huge... the chassis is much much bigger and is much better at grounding electrical cables... the westi is a small car and most electrical problems i have had have all been down to earthing issues the earth cables you get off the mazda scrap them for the engine and transmission make some new ones which are bigger, New cables will earth better and get rid of most electrical problems people have at the start of the elctrical side of things and you will find like me the engine will start with no problems what so ever.....
I really hope all this has helped many of you out and if i come accross any more issues i will be sure to post them soon thanks for looking also if you need any help feel free to email me and i will see what i can do to help you... my contact details are on the contact me page.....
the first thing i found was getting the diff in... this is not a perfect fit and is very tight but it will go if you have everything a little loose and tighten up the two top mountings first then the two bolts that go through the chassis bushes.
Next issue i had was getting the bushes into the housings i advise you have this done by westfield if you do not have a hydrolic press as these wont go in easy by a vice like it says in the manual they are a push fit also another way around this is to have the poly bush upgrade which are alot easier to fit....
next is a little something not so much a problem but more of a advisery, when getting the starter kit if you have not also got the finishing kit then i recommend while there buy yourself the engine and transmission mounting bushes these will cost you very little and also the front upper ball joints, this is so when you are building your kit you dont very very quickly come to a dead end as now you can get the engine and transmission in and also you will be able to get the car on the floor on its wheels to do all the tracking and all the torques on the bolts also if you had the space to store the body pannels you can fit them for now and get all the wireing into the car to make sure everything still works and to make some mods..... just an idea you do not have to do this but it made my life easier....
Now for a little more of a tricky problem the clutch servo... you get a brand new clutch hydrolic cable in the kit with 2 banjo bolts either end the thread on the banjo bolt is ok for the master cylinder but will not fit the servo on the transmission the thread is miles out DO NOT try to screw it in you will strip the threads on the servo there are two ways around this...... go to a local car suppliers and get a banjo bolt the same size but right thread or the calliper banjo bolts you are replacing with new ones in the kit are the right thread you can use one of them and it will work fine.....
The next problem i found was the very tight space in the tunnel for the transmission when i tried the gears the transmission housing kept banging against the side of the chassis the way i got around this is very simple lower the transmission down and on the casing are some big lugs which stick out and are just part of the casting process grind these flat and re fit the transmission NOTE when marking out the points for the transmission mountings try to the transmission as central as possible if you find this hard make slots instead of holes so you can adjust the transmission posistion and tighten up tight you will find there is very little space in the tunnel either side of the transmission so this is vital if you dont want any rattles while driving along.....
The last problem i have found up to now in my build is electrical.... i have found alot of people have being having many many electrical problems but this seems to me to be not such a bad thing if you labled all your plugs up when removing them its very simple.... now you need to look at it like this you have just removed a 1600 or possibly a 1800 engine and transmission from a mazda mx5 which is yes a small car but compared to a westi its huge... the chassis is much much bigger and is much better at grounding electrical cables... the westi is a small car and most electrical problems i have had have all been down to earthing issues the earth cables you get off the mazda scrap them for the engine and transmission make some new ones which are bigger, New cables will earth better and get rid of most electrical problems people have at the start of the elctrical side of things and you will find like me the engine will start with no problems what so ever.....
I really hope all this has helped many of you out and if i come accross any more issues i will be sure to post them soon thanks for looking also if you need any help feel free to email me and i will see what i can do to help you... my contact details are on the contact me page.....
Transmission Mod To Fit Tunnel
Here is a picture for you to understand how i made a little extra room for the transmission in the tunnel you may not have this problem where if you go into 5th or reverse the housing of the transmission hits the tunnel chassis and may cause rattles but i did and im sure some of you will still have the same problem so here it is........
The marked areas in the circles will have lugs on them or parts of the casing which do stick out quite a bit you can grind the casing here flat and not cause damage to the transmission this will give you the extra room you need, if you need it of course.. hope this helps.....
